HomeMy WebLinkAbout1999 Apr 08 - The Register Article: "An old war will bring Tibetans to Cape Cod"An old war
will bring
Tibetans to
Cape Cod
By Laurie Celine Smith
awa Rimpoche, a Buddhist
monk and member of the
highest Tibetan order,
walked across the roughest terrain
on earth by night, wearing his
maroon robes. His trek was to
escape the 1959 Chinese invasion
of Tibet.
Cape resident Marietta Hickey
moved to Hawaii in 1979, to
escape financial ruin and what she
says were troubled relationships.
There, she retreated to a mountain-
top, where she encountered a life
changing experience.
Then they met — in Nepal. They
married in May of 1997, and live
in Yarmouthport.
Marietta and her husband, Lawa,
are working to bring 70 or more
Tibetans to Cape Cod to work for
the summer. The two of them are
working to raise a quarter of a mil-
lion dollars so Lawa can rebuild
(continued on page 17)
Lawa Rimpoche's 1959 trek across the Himalayas brought him, finally, to Yarmouthport.
Staff photo by Robert Barboza
Lawa Rimpoche, a Buddhist monk and member
of the highest Tibetan order, walked across the roughest
terrain on earth by night, wearing his maroon robes.
His trek was to escape the 1959 Chinese invasion of Tibet.
THE REGISTER THURSDAY, APRIL 8, 1999 PAGE 17
reach our shores
An old war will bring Tibetans to Cape Cod (continued from page 1)
his monastery in Eastern Tibet, and in doing so preserve a
culture that is almost lost. She is also turning her house into
a dharma center, a place where Tibetan monks and nuns
can teach.
The 70 Tibetans will arrive in mid April and early May.
They will work at jobs from Provincetown to Sandwich.
Marietta will hire 14 Tibetans to work at her restaurant,
Abicci, in Yarmouthport, paying them $6 to $12 an hour.
"Most are at $8.52 an hour, like the dishwashers," she
said, explaining that, "they need to meet their expenses to
make it worth it for them to leave their families, husbands
and wives." She will house them two to a bedroom, six in
one three-bedroom rental house, four in another two-bed-
room house. Others are renting a condo or staying in
homes where locals have offered to house
them. Other businesses, like Daniel Webster
Inn, which also own Hearth & Kettle, will hire
the Tibetans through the help of Jane
Zimmerman, owner of a mid -Cape company
which brings foreign workers to the Cape.
What makes Tibetans different from other
minorities is that "they are without a country.
They are refugees," said Marietta.
"There is more work here than they are
used to, because in Nepal, they can't get jobs
and have no money. They are happy to make a
little money," said Lawa, who in his baggy
black pants and paint splattered black turtle-
neck does not resemble a traditional robed
monk. Holding a caulking gun in his hand as
he spoke, taking a break from renovating his
and Marietta's house, he told his story.
`Passing highest mountains'
Lawa walked for two months that spring of
1959, hiding in the cliffs of the Himalayan
mountains, sometimes for days on end with no
food, hiding from Chinese soldiers who were
trying to kill the thousands of people who
scurried out of Lhasa when the holy city and
home of their political leader, ti, Lama,
was bombed.
An Eastern Tibetan monk, Lawa had been in the capital
studying at Patala Palace when the Chinese mortars began
destroying the city. The Tibetans scattered from Lhasa one
by one, going in every direction into the mountains.
"I did not know where to go. I knew to hide," Lawa said,
speaking in his second language, English, that he learned
as an adult after leaving Tibet. He said he was "too scared
to feel cold or heat. Could not feel hunger. Everybody cry."
He was about 23 years old when he walked through the
world's highest mountains, leaving his own Sera monastery
in Eastern Tibet it for the last time. Oddly enough, Lawa's
name, given to him by Tibetan monks when he was 8,
translates into "passing highest mountains." His birth name
was Chungay Dorjae, which means "enlightened thunder-
bolt."
hunder-
bolt"
Lawa finally found his way to the Indian border, where
he was able to rest in safety, in a bamboo barracks that the
Indian government temporarily provided for him and other
Tibetans. Lawa is one of about 5,500 monks who walked
out of Tibet, and one of approximately 100,000 Tibetans
who did it
A Geshe (equivalent to a Ph.D. in our society), he decid-
ed to no longer wear his robes. In his refugee group, he was
the eldest in a group of 13 monks, none of whom spoke the
language of the strange country where they suddenly found
themselves living. They had no money, planted trees for
work, knew no one, and had no ties to their native Tibetan
culture.
He was influenced in 1971 by some of the younger
monks, when he broke two of his 253 vows. With no
Tibetan community or place to learn and practice the dhar-
ma (Buddhist teachings) Lawa broke his vow of celibacy
and his vow not to drink alcohol.
"I had to disrobe, or else I would look like a monk on
the outside, and not feel like a monk on the inside," he
said. Many monks who left Tibet disrobed. "Some people
become crazy, do things like that," he said of people in a
situation with "no family, no country, lost." Lawa eventual-
ly found his way to Nepal, where he worked for 11 years as
a cook for the School for International Training.
The monastery he left served three villages. He returned
to Tibet in 1983 to find his monastery demolished with
Tibetan -American student exchange.
Marietta has set up a non-profit corporation, called Jang
Chup Ling, which translates into "Land of Enlightenment."
She and Lawa have deposited $20,000 of their own money
to start it off. The goal is to house 100 monks at Lawa's
rebuilt monastery, so that the younger Tibetans do not for-
get the lessons of compassion that his culture holds sacred.
`I was just a mess'
Marietta Hickey admits she has a reputation from the
party days of the '60s and '70s, some of it stemming from
various controversies at her previous restaurant, La
Cipollina. Marietta openly discusses her life prior to her
"only a few walls left" standing, and only two of his eight
brothers and sisters still alive. His people have asked him
to return, to rebuild the mon?stery so they can have "a
place to pray, teachers, and a future for this life and the
next life."
He feels the need to return, to rebuild his monastery, to
give the younger generation something to believe in, as the
Chinese have taken away all forms of religion. "Tibetans
have something inside," he said, with a fist to his chest.
"They are like flowers that need sunlight so they can open
up," which they can't do without the wisdom of the elders.
Without the monasteries, they have no place to learn, no
center or community. "The old are dying, and the new gen-
eration is forgetting," he said. To rebuild his monastery is
to re -instill the belief system of his people.
It has been 40 years since his escape, and every day of
his life he carries in him a great hope that something will
change between China and Tibet. The Chinese government
is finally allowing some monks to rebuild in Eastern Tibet,
where Lawa is from. It is a strategy which decreases oppo-
sition to Chinese rule and is good for tourism and publicity.
It also creates a central institution in a community with
ready-made social legitimacy which, if it can then be con-
trolled through selected and "approved" monks, can be
used as a way to disseminate Chinese propaganda and exert
local control, according to Philosophy Professor Jay
Garfield of'Smith College, who helped create the first
Marietta Hickey
and her husband,
Lawa, are working
to bring 70 or more
Tibetans to Cape Cod
to work for the
summer. The two of
them are working
to raise a quarter
of a million dollars
so Lawa can rebuild
his monastery in
Eastern Tibet, and in
doing so preserve
a culture that is
almost lost.
Buddhist awakening. "My mind was in really horrible
shape. I was just a mess. I lacked in enthusiasm and hope."
She moved to Hawaii broke in late 1979, after facing "a
lot of opposition" from people in her life on Cape Cod. She
took a massage course while there, and flipped burgers for
money. Her massage course led her to a Buddhist retreat.
"I wasn't on a spiritual quest. I was agnostic," she said.
"I went on the retreat for all the wrong reasons," she said
of the experience that nevertheless led her to her new life.
At the top of the mountain, she realized that the Tibetans
"have a much broader understanding of the workings of the
mind," she said between interruptions of carpenters,
plumbers and phone calls as she prepared for the opening
of Abicci's season while finishing up a month of renova-
tions.
" I learned to train my mind," Marietta said of her stud-
ies under her Tibetan teacher, Lama Tenzin. "Buddhists
put a lot of emphasis on personal responsibility. Nobody
can do it for you," she said.
Her Buddhist teacher brought her to Nepal, where she
met Lawa.
"I knew the first time I met him that he was somebody
special."
"Marietta has a very kind heart," said Lawa.
"She is not someone thinking only of money," he said.
"She wants to help others," he said of his wife.
"She will make many people happy" by bringing the 70
Tibetans here, he said.