HomeMy WebLinkAbout2006 Nov 08 - Cape Cod Times Article: "Goodbye gluttony, hello GLUTEN-FREE"DD
30 -MINUTE MEAL
,)A complete turkey dinner
in 30 minutes is something
for which to be thankful.
Photos by PAUL BLACKMORE/Cape Cod Times
Page C-3
Resources
Celiac Solution
■ What: A South
Yarmouth consulting
company that also
sells baked goods
and offers catering
services.
■ Web: www.celiac-
solution.com
■ Phone: 508-737-
0487
The Healthy Villi
■ What: A support
group in the Boston
area that offers
information, includ-
ing a link to a list
of restaurants with
gluten-free menu
items and other sup-
port groups.
0 Web: www.
healthyvilli.com
■ Phone: 617-262-
5422 or toil -free
888 -4 -CELIAC
Clan Thompson's
Celiac site
■ What: An informa-
tion Web site
■ Web: www.clan-
thompson.com
Children's Hospital
Boston
■ What: The hospital
runs a Celiac Disease
Program and Sup-
port Group
■ Web: wwW.child-
renshospital.org/clin-
icalservices/Site2166/
mainpageS2166P0.
html
Judith Mann, left,
launched her gluten-
free baked goods
business in March.
Yarmouth officials
granted her a variance
for a home-based
catering service
because she needed a
gluten-free kitchen.
Goodbye gluttony, hello
GLLTEN-FREE
In a holiday
stuffed with
feasting, .caution
is required for
those with special
dietary needs
INSIDE C
i Advice
C-5
■ Business
C-7
■ Obituaries
C-10
■ Classified
C-13
Editor Gwenn Friss
■p{lone 508-862-1155
-fax 508-771-3292
mg6iss@,wpecodonline.com
Chiffon tart
is worth
the time
THE ASSOCIATED PRESS
YDE PARK, N.Y.
— Autumn's bounty
of crisp apples, juicy
pears and plentiful
pumpkins turn our thoughts
to traditional holiday recipes.
And there is perhaps no more
traditional holiday dessert
than pumpkin pie.
But if you're looking to
change your holiday reper-
toire, why not try a pumpkin
chiffon tart, instead. Prepare(
with a pecan tart shell and
layered with a citrus -fig
puree, this dessert offers an
unexpected take on tradition.
Alison McLoughlin, a
baking and pastry instructor
at the Culinary Institute of
America, adapted this recipe
from her mother's pie recipe.
The creamy pumpkin chiffon
mousse is balanced between
a nutty pecan crust and the
KEITH FERRISIASSOCIATED PRIES
This dessert takes time, bu
with its pecan crust and cit
rus-fig puree layer, guests wil
think you've been to culinar
school since last Thanksgiving
crisp but delicate lace pecan
cookies, serving up a pleasin€
texture contrast. "This tart is
ideal for easy holiday enter-
taining because many of
the steps can be prepared in
advance,"McLoughlin says.
"For example, the tart dough
can be made several weeks
in advance and frozen until
needed. Dried figs and carne(
pumpkin are readily avail-
able, and the fig filling may bi
prepared ahead and refriger-
ated up to a week."
The pumpkin chiffon
mousse makes this tart lighter
than traditional pumpkin pie.
The pumpkin is combined
with gelatin to make the first
part of the mousse. Then a
Swiss meringue is prepared
by combining egg whites and
sugar over a double boiler.
By STACEY MYERS
STAFF WRITER
Mow was talking to my sister, Danielle, recently about
the fast -approaching holidays, and she winced as
a harsh reality struck her: She must de-glutenize
Thanksgiving.
Earlier this year, her 2 -year-old daughter, Jillian,
was diagnosed with celiac disease, wlich is an
autoimmune disorder that affects the small intestine.
This means Jillian's body is intolerant of wheat, rye,
barley and other grains that contain gluten, a protein
pivotal in making things sticky during the cooking
process.
In the most basic terms, even crumb -size bits
has to be rethought.
But some experts I consulted here on Cape Cod say it's
a daunting yet do -able challenge.
Judith Mann, a SouthYarmouth resident diagnosed
nearly four years ago with celiac disease, just laughed
when asked about her first experience cooking a gluten-
free holiday feast.
"I couldn't imagine that it would be that difficult. Basi-
cally, I just converted the recipes and substituted in non -
gluten -containing items,"said Mann, a registered nurse
who founded a consulting company called Celiac
Please see IM IITCN-CRCC lr-'J
of gluten irritate her intestine, which in turn can cause '
Good Ju.
stomachaches, make it hard for her body to absorb nutri-
Which is
of Juditt
ents, and lead to problems like slow physical and mental
baked g,
development.
business
The treatment: Avoid foods with gluten - forever.
gluten-fi
buns.
At barely 23 pounds, Jillian isn't much bigger than the
turkey my sister will cook for Thanksgiving, yet she has
giant dietary issues.
My sister and brother-in-law, Dave, have hosted
Thanksgiving before and realize it's an undertaking.
But throw in the celiac factor, and things become really
mind-boggling.
Holiday meals are a gluten minefield, what with all
the gravy, stuffing, pies and cakes. The whole menu
by combining egg whites and
sugar over a double boiler.
The egg white mixture is then
whipped until a medium -
stiff peak is achieved. The
meringue is then gently
folded into the pumpkin to
create a light filling.
Pumpkin Chiffon Mousse
Tart with Citrus Fig Com-
pote and Pecan Florentines
(Start to finish 4 hours, 1
hour 45 minutes active)
Tart Dough:
11/4 cups cake flour
Please see TART /C-4
C2 ■ Cape Cod Tinres
Gluten-free: Changes mean everyone can e
continued from C-1
Solution.
"Let me tell you, huge disas-
ters because of that. You can't
just substitute things in," she
said. "You have to learn all over
again."
Just to recreate her favorite
banana bread recipe took
painstaking testing with gluten-
free flours. She and her sister,
a restaurateur, experimented
with ways to combine the ingre-
dients and whip the eggs and
butter.
They got bread that wasn't
cooked in the center, sides that
"were fried," or bread that just
didn't rise the way it should.
Finally, they struck on just the
right technique for whipping
the eggs. The resulting banana
bread won second place at the
2004 Barnstable County Fair
and was the first product for
Mann's wholesale baked goods
business.
Her advice for the first
gluten-free Thanksgiving: Keep
it simple.
"Make all the same things
you would normally make, but
try to find someone to make the
pies for you - that can be a big
challenge,"Mann said.
But what about finding the
ingredients?
My sister now spends a lot
of time reading food labels,
seeking forbidden ingredients -
such as modified wheat starch,
barley malt and maltodextrin
- and warnings the product was
made in a plant where wheat
flour is used.
For Thanksgiving, she must
even research the turkey,
because some companies inject
their birds with broth that con-
tains gluten.
Mann suggested consulting
support organizations, such as
Healthy Villi in Boston or Clan
Thompson's Celiac Site, which
offer guidance on products that
contain gluten.
Monique DeCoste of Center-
ville said she checks with those
lists, but she also calls food
manufacturers.
"If I see a 1 -800 -number,
I check. I check constantly,
because there are changes all
the time," said DeCoste, who
was diagnosed a year -and -a -
half ago.
She echoed Mann's advice
about menu planning.
"Keep everything very simple
until, you get more knowledge-
able,"DeCoste said.
It's a very natural diet, she
said, centered on vegetables,
fruit and meat. And there are a
lot of mixes available now for
cakes and pies.
"There's a lot out there. I don't
Celiac tidbits
0 More than 1 -in -133
people have celiac disease,
and many don't even
know it, according to Chil-
dren's Hospital, Boston.
0 Having a gluten intoler-
ance is not the same as
having an allergy, where
you may get hives or have
trouble breathing if you
ingest the wrong food. The
effects of celiac disease can
remain barely perceptible
for years. Also, you can
outgrow an allergy.
0 Symptoms can include
bellyaches, a bloated
stomach, diarrhea, growth
problems, failure to gain
weight, low energy and
skin rashes.
■ Cross -contamination of
food is a big hazard. All
feel like I'm suffering," she said.
She noted, though, that gluten-
free items can be two or three
times more expensive.
OK, so it looks like, with some
planning, the menu should come
together nicely.
But what about the guests?
On top of everything else, my
sister will have to worry about
cross -contamination of food and
making sure no one gives Jillian
r'0 1 1 /%n 1
food, including condi-
ments like butter and
mayonnaise, must be
handled carefully. For in-
stance, there's no dipping
a knife into the butter,
after using it to cut open a
dinner roll. Counters must
be cleaned thoroughly
before preparing gluten-
free food.
0 Other items that may
contain gluten: medicine,
postage stamps, stickers,
lipstick and Play -Doh.
01f you ask, some res-
taurants have gluten-free
menus. The Cape list
includes: Outback Steak-
house in Hyannis, Uno
Chicago Grill in Hyan-
nis, Coonamessett Inn in
Falmouth, 902 Main in
South Yarmouth and Olive
Garden in Hyannis.
something she shouldn't have.
Celiac disease - particularly
when it involves an inquisitive
toddler, who has been known to
sample cat food - requires edu-
catingthe whole family. Danielle
has been coaching everyone,
including her 4 -year-old, Julia,
who will have to know what her
kid sister can eat when there's
a baby sitter, or befuddled aunt,
taking care of them.
For simplicity's sake, Man
said, "I just ask people not 1
bring anything that has glute
in it with them: crackers, breE
or pies."
"If they do want to brir
something, have them call ar,
go over the ingredients," A
said. "Ask them is it a new stir
of butter? A new jar of mayor
naise?"
This year, DeCoste has a dii
ferent solution.
"You know where I'm going
for Thanksgiving - the voi
Trapp family inn in Vermont,
she said."They are familiar witt
gluten-free."
Hmm. That sounds good.
But my family has only beer,
at this gluten-free thing since
July, I'm not sure if we're ready
to test dining out on a holiday.
Besides, I'm convinced we've
already got all the fixings for a
new holiday Hallmark movie:
"A Very Gluten -Free Thanks-
giving."
Judith Mann of Celiac Solu-
tion shares some of her favorite
gluten-free holiday recipes -
many of which use .Jude's Mix,
a combination of flours that are
OK for those with celiac disease.
"We use this mixture for cakes,
brownies, muffins and pie
crusts. (It is) not recommended
for breads"Mann says.
7