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HomeMy WebLinkAbout2017 Mar 31 - Cape Cod Times ArticleCape Cod Times I CAPEWEEK I Friday, March 31, 2017 15 RESTAURANT REVIEW Four Seasons delivers pasta with flavorful flair By Laurie Higgins of the Friendly's it once was. Contributing writer But once you enter the bus- tling Italian restaurant, it's a From the exterior, Four different world. Warm wood, Seasons Trattoria in South pale green walls and tables Yarmouth still bears the stamp in white linen create a warm and cozy vibe. A wall of paned mirrors visually expands the small dining room that con- sists of three rows of tables, set pretty close together, just like they are at restaurants in Boston's North End. Service is both warm and prompt. Our water glasses were immediately filled and refilled often. While we perused the menus, we had some nice crusty bread with a plate of olive oil. The olive oil had slices of marinated zucchini that got us off to a wonderful agrodolce (sweet and sour) start. For an appetizer, the four people in our party shared the Italian antipasto for two ($16.95). It was abun- dant, even for four. A small mound of perfectly dressed house salad (insalata mista) was buried under an artfully arranged assortment of sharp Italian cheese wedges, rolled prosciutto, hard salami, pep - peroncini, cherry peppers and olives. We thoroughly enjoyed it. The side of fried artichokes ($8.95) was also amazing. The quartered artichokes were lightly battered, tender and flavorful. Of the four dinners we sampled, the lasagna ($19.95) was the most noteworthy. It's no wonder it is listed as a house specialty. It was a giant slab of wonderful in every way. The ground veal and beef in the Bolognese was as tender as any I've ever tasted. The A QUICK BITE Four Seasons Trattoria 1077 Route 28, South Yarmouth 508-760-6600,fourseasonstrat- toria.com Hours: 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. - 8:30 p.m. Sundays marina sauce was bright and flavorful and the pasta sheets were silky and had the bite of fresh pasta. There was plenty of melted cheese to hold it all together. The Frutti di Mare ($24.99) was also excellent. Fresh linguini was tossed with a light white wine sauce (red sauce is also available). The pasta was topped with five large mus- sels, three clams, a generous number of tender calamari rings and one giant butterflied shrimp. The seafood was all perfectly cooked - moist with each type of fish retaining its own flavor, but also melding to connect into one lovely dish. Our son's girlfriend, Katie, ordered the Strozzapreti ($21.95), which is a torpedo - shaped rolled pasta similar to cavatelli, but longer. This particular dish on the spe- cials page came with shrimp, asparagus and a pesto cream sauce. I snuck a fork over. The flavor was wonderful and the asparagus was cooked to a perfect crisp/tender. On the other end of the table, out of my reach, our son thor- oughly enjoyed his Fettucini The place: Mike's Roast Beef & Pizzeria, 459 Route 28, West Yarmouth, 774-470-6151, m i kesroastbeefyarmouth.com The vibe: Clean, but basic pizza place decor; go for the food, not the ambiance. The food: Lots of choices, including roast beef sandwiches, pizza, calzone, pasta, dinner platters, salads, soups and more The cost: $36 for two with enough leftovers for two meals Worth the price alone: Towering melt -in -your - mouth roast beef Don't miss: Dessert calzones. We did, but they sound so intriguing we're going back to try them. The lasagna at Four Seasons Trat- toria in Yarmouth was superb: silky sheets of what tasted like fresh pasta with a meaty sauce and plenty of cheese. [LAURIE HIGGINS] Carbonara ($17.95) with an upgrade of added chicken ($4). "Very good," he said. I trust him because he was well -trained. Out of all of our children, Thommy went on the most restaurant reviews with us because he was our youngest child and he grew up in that era of our life. At one point, a regular reader called him "Burger Boy," because that was all he ever ordered. Then he grew up, and the fussiest eater we ever met started eating, enjoying and critiquing real food, even in our home. The last time we visited Four Seasons, they had just opened and our son was still in high school. It was so nice to go back to see all the ways that Four Seasons and Thommy have grown. Note: We arrived at Four Seasons Trattoria shortly after 5:30 p.m. on a Satur- day night, but if we had been any later, we would have had a long wait for a table. Reservations are highly recommended, especially on weekend nights. The roast beef sandwich dinner at Mike's Roast Beef & Pizzeria was a tower of tender, thinly sliced roast beef on a grilled bun. This size came with the dinner, which included two sides. [GWENN FRISS/CAPE COD TIMES]